Nestled in the mountains of northeastern Taiwan, Jiufen (九份) is a picturesque old mining town with a rich history, stunning views, and a vibrant cultural tapestry. Often described as a place suspended in time, Jiufen draws visitors from around the world who are captivated by its narrow alleys, red lanterns, traditional teahouses, and nostalgic ambiance. This charming town offers more than just visual splendor—it’s a portal into Taiwan’s past and a showcase of its enduring traditions.
In this comprehensive guide, we’ll delve into Jiufen’s origins, its transformation, must-visit attractions, famous cuisine, and practical travel tips for anyone planning a visit.
1. Historical Background of Jiufen
1.1. The Origin of the Name
The name Jiufen means “nine portions” or “nine parts” in Mandarin. According to local legend, during the Qing Dynasty, the village had only nine families. Whenever supplies arrived from the city, the families would request nine portions to be sent, hence the name.
1.2. The Gold Rush Era
Jiufen remained a sleepy fishing and farming village until 1890, when gold was discovered in the area during the Japanese colonial period. This discovery turned Jiufen into a boomtown, attracting thousands of miners and prospectors. At its peak, Jiufen was known as the “Little Shanghai” or “Little Hong Kong” due to its bustling economy and nightlife.
1.3. Decline and Revival
After the gold reserves diminished in the 1950s, Jiufen’s fortunes declined sharply. Many residents left, and the town faded into obscurity. However, Jiufen found new life in the 1990s, thanks to the success of Taiwanese filmmaker Hou Hsiao-hsien’s film A City of Sadness, which was set in Jiufen and won a Golden Lion at the Venice Film Festival. The nostalgic atmosphere of the town captured the imagination of viewers, and tourism soon followed.
2. Jiufen and Popular Culture
2.1. The Studio Ghibli Connection
Although not officially confirmed, Jiufen is widely believed to have inspired Hayao Miyazaki’s iconic animated film Spirited Away. The town’s winding staircases, red lanterns, and atmospheric tea houses resemble the bathhouse world in the movie. As a result, Jiufen has become a pilgrimage site for Studio Ghibli fans.
2.2. Filming Location
Jiufen has also been a favorite location for Taiwanese television dramas and films. Its cinematic landscape provides a perfect setting for historical dramas, romances, and nostalgic retrospectives.
3. Top Attractions in Jiufen
3.1. Jiufen Old Street (九份老街)
This is the heart of Jiufen. A narrow, winding alley packed with food stalls, souvenir shops, tea houses, and boutiques, Jiufen Old Street is where the town comes alive. It’s best explored on foot, slowly savoring the smells, sights, and sounds. Key highlights include:
- Handmade taro balls
- Traditional herbal jelly desserts
- Lantern-lit tea houses
- Local handicrafts and souvenirs
3.2. A-Mei Tea House (阿妹茶樓)
Possibly the most iconic building in Jiufen, the A-Mei Tea House is famous for its architecture, red lanterns, and panoramic views. This tea house offers a serene atmosphere where guests can sip oolong or jasmine tea while enjoying views of the Pacific Ocean. It’s especially enchanting at dusk.
3.3. Shengping Theater (昇平戲院)
Built in 1914, Shengping Theater is the oldest theater in Taiwan. Though small, it’s rich in history and was a major entertainment hub during the mining era. It has since been restored and often showcases old Taiwanese films and memorabilia.
3.4. Gold Museum (黃金博物館)
Located in nearby Jinguashi, the Gold Museum offers insights into Taiwan’s mining history. It includes the former residence of the Japanese crown prince and mining tunnels that visitors can explore.
3.5. Keelung Mountain Trail (基隆山步道)
For hiking enthusiasts, Keelung Mountain offers stunning panoramic views of Jiufen, Jinguashi, and the Pacific Ocean. The trail is moderately difficult and takes about 1–2 hours round trip.
3.6. Jiufen Kite Museum
A hidden gem, the Jiufen Kite Museum showcases a collection of traditional and modern kites. It also offers kite-making workshops for families and children.
4. Jiufen’s Food Culture
4.1. Must-Try Dishes
Jiufen is a haven for street food lovers. Some of the local delicacies you shouldn’t miss include:
- Taro Ball Dessert (芋圓) – Chewy balls made from taro and sweet potato served hot or cold in syrup or herbal jelly.
- Fish Ball Soup (魚丸湯) – Light and savory soup with handmade fish balls.
- Grilled Mushrooms – Large mushrooms grilled and drizzled with sauces and seasonings.
- Peanut Ice Cream Roll (花生捲冰淇淋) – A unique dessert where ice cream is wrapped in a crepe with peanut brittle shavings and cilantro.
- Herbal Rice Cake (草仔粿) – A glutinous rice snack filled with savory or sweet fillings.
4.2. Traditional Tea Houses
Tea culture is alive and well in Jiufen. Visitors can spend hours in one of the town’s many traditional tea houses, enjoying not only tea but also the beautiful wooden interiors and sweeping views. Popular varieties include High Mountain Oolong, Dong Ding, and Alishan tea.
5. Jiufen’s Unique Atmosphere
Jiufen’s charm lies not only in its architecture or food but also in its misty mountain ambiance. The weather is often cloudy or rainy, which adds to its mysterious aura. Red lanterns glowing in the mist, cobbled alleys, and the scent of tea and incense create an atmosphere that feels otherworldly.
6. How to Get to Jiufen
6.1. From Taipei
Jiufen is easily accessible from Taipei, about 35 km (21 miles) away.
Option 1: By Train + Bus
- Take the train from Taipei Main Station to Ruifang Station.
- From Ruifang, take bus 1062 or 788 to Jiufen Old Street.
Option 2: By Bus (Direct)
- Take bus 1062 from Zhongxiao Fuxing MRT Station (Exit 2). The journey takes about 1.5 hours.
Option 3: Private Car or Taxi
- A taxi or private car from Taipei will cost more (~NT$1000-1500) but is more convenient, especially if traveling in a group.
7. Best Time to Visit
7.1. Weather
Jiufen has a subtropical climate, and it tends to be rainy year-round, especially in spring and early summer. However, the rain adds to its charm.
7.2. Seasons
- Spring (March–May): Mild and lush; occasional rain.
- Summer (June–August): Warm and humid; frequent afternoon showers.
- Autumn (September–November): Cool and clear; ideal for hiking and sightseeing.
- Winter (December–February): Chilly and foggy; romantic ambiance with fewer crowds.
8. Where to Stay
8.1. Traditional Inns (民宿)
Staying in a minsu (traditional inn) gives travelers a deeper cultural experience. Many inns offer rooms with wooden interiors, tatami mats, and ocean views.
8.2. Guesthouses and B&Bs
These range from budget to mid-range and are often located close to the Old Street.
8.3. Nearby Cities
If you prefer more urban comforts, you can stay in Ruifang or even Taipei, and make Jiufen a day trip.
9. Jiufen Travel Tips
- Go Early or Stay Late: Jiufen is popular with day-trippers, so visiting early in the morning or staying overnight lets you enjoy the town without the crowds.
- Wear Comfortable Shoes: The town is full of steep stairs and uneven paths.
- Bring an Umbrella or Raincoat: Rain is common, so it’s best to be prepared.
- Try Local Snacks: Don’t fill up too early—there’s a wide variety of snacks to taste as you explore.
- Mind the Altitude: Jiufen is in the mountains, and some older visitors might find the inclines challenging.
10. Jiufen Beyond Tourism
10.1. A Window into Taiwanese Heritage
Jiufen is more than a tourist destination; it’s a living museum of Taiwan’s mining history, Japanese influence, and traditional culture. Through its architecture, festivals, and local customs, Jiufen provides a glimpse into how Taiwan has evolved while preserving its roots.
10.2. Community and Art
In recent years, Jiufen has attracted artists and writers, adding a creative dimension to its identity. Art galleries, studios, and bookshops have sprung up in hidden corners, offering yet another reason to explore beyond the main streets.
Conclusion: The Magic of Jiufen
Jiufen, Taiwan, is a place where the past and present coexist in harmony. From its golden age as a mining town to its modern rebirth as a cultural and tourist hotspot, Jiufen has maintained its soul. Its winding alleys, tea houses, and misty mountains create an atmosphere that is both nostalgic and magical.
Whether you’re a history buff, a foodie, a hiker, a photographer, or a Studio Ghibli fan, Jiufen offers an experience that is uniquely Taiwanese and universally enchanting.
It’s not just a place you visit. It’s a place you feel.
